A visit to the Etretat Gardens in France was definitely one of the highlights of our Europe Grand Tour. The place is a unique combination of impressionist painting-like atmosphere, contemporary sculptures, and various local and exotic plants. It’s definitely a head scratcher in some cases — some particular topiary pieces are trippy to say the least (the grimacing heads in verdant mollusk-shaped bushes are definitely a scene you see when you eat some weird mushrooms). Somehow, the landmark’s location is even more impressive — the gardens stand on one of the most exceptionally beautiful limestone cliffs of the Alabaster Coast.
The verdict is in: We really enjoyed our time here, so we would like to give you all the ins and outs of visiting Les Jardins d'Étretat, including ways to get here, ticket prices, parking tips, and some interesting facts. On top of that, you can go through a list of other wonderful things to do in Etretat to maximize your fun time in this lovely town.
Table of Contents
- Are the Etretat Gardens worth seeing?
- Brief history and main areas
- Tickets price and working hours of the Etretat Gardens
- How to get to Les Jardins d'Étretat from Paris
4.1. Parking in Etretat - Fun facts about the Gardens of Etretat
- Other things to do in Etretat
- Tips and tricks
- Where to stay nearby
Are the Etretat Gardens worth seeing?
Without a sliver of doubt, we say that the Etretat Gardens are definitely worth checking out at least once in your lifetime. Even though Etretat’s beach and cliffs steal the spotlight in the grand scheme of things, the gardens are still a major tourist attraction. A unique mixture of a historic park and an open-air museum of modern art leaves you with vivid impressions and lasting memories, even if browsing through the green lush topiary wasn’t your thing to begin with.
Looking back, we realize that we were always destined to come here: We’ve had a picture of the “Drops of Rain” art pieces saved on one of our Pinterest travel inspo boards for years — we always thought they looked like new moon face emojis, but that’s all the info we had; just a pretty picture that could’ve been taken anywhere in the world.
Tickets to the Etretat Gardens >>
Truth is, we didn’t get around to connecting the dots before making the trek all the way to Normandy — only when coming (literally) face to face with these weird but enchanting statues plopped in haphazard manner in some thick emerald-green bushes did the photograph come back into our minds. Call it manifestation, call it dumb luck, — we prefer to think that it was fate working its magic and guiding us to one of the most beautiful places in the world — the Gardens of Etretat — with us already in love with it, no questions asked.
Now that you know the pull the gardens have on all the people who visit them (we are still reeling in all the best ways from out last detour), it’s time to look deeper into the topic of what this spot in the world actually is and how it came to be.
Gardens’ of Etretat brief history and main areas
The Gardens, now a world-famous tourist attraction, started as a private property bought by an extravagant French actress — Madame Thébault. A humble (by aristocratic standards of yesteryears) villa on the coast looked lonely, so she decided to plant a tree (it was back in 1903, which promptly started the Gardens as we came to know them). That’s also when the gardening bug got her (it always catches you when you least expect it, but most people are particularly prone to getting a green thumb after turning forty — so be on the lookout!): She let her creativity (with the help of the hired gardeners, we presume) run amuck on the green rolling hills of the Alabaster Coast.
It wasn’t long before her mansion got swallowed by greenery on all sides, but there was structure to the madness, — the concept still reigning true, after the legendary revamp of the gardens by the famed landscape architect Alexandre Grivko in 2017. Though most people link the atmosphere of the Gardens of Etretat to Claude Monet (after all, it was he who initially inspired its prime manifestation, painting the area en plein air dozens of times over his lifetime), we would take a different route and relay the tale of the place as a marriage between Salvador Dalí and Mother Nature — crazy but grounding at the same time.
The Gardens of Etretat, though aesthetically pleasing and generally inviting (thousands of visitors back up the claim every day), can be pretty intimidating if you don’t know what to expect. Sure, a garden is a great place to walk around, hide in the cool shadows, admire the plants, and get lost among the little pathways, but the Gardens of Etretat are an entirely different beast! What some might a call a horticultural acid trip, many claim to be the space where you either go completely blank, or with a heap of knowledge received prior to the visit. You know us: We are definitely in the latter camp, and we’re guessing you’re as well! Otherwise, you wouldn’t be reading the articles on the topic at all.
Either way, it’s a good thing to start with looking into the seven areas of the Gardens you will explore during your visit:
- Jardin Avatar (The Avatar's Path)
Do not worry, you will not find blue and long-tailed creatures hiding in the bushes along the path. Here, Avatar is a mythical deity that guards the Gardens — they are a world where nature meets fantasy, after all! As you find yourself on this path (much like Dorothy with her yellow brick road), do not rush: Look around to notice the walls made out of yew trees, duck beneath the sculpted branch arches, stop and smell the roses (both metaphorically and literally), — the gardens are like liminal spaces suspended over the water, leading themselves down the cliffs. You won’t find a similar sight anywhere else in the world! When it comes to the area’s highlights, you can’t go wrong with exploring the “Industrial Forest” — look out for a tree that has a metal key in the middle, like in a music box that we all had as kids. When you turn the key, a beautiful melody will come out from the inside the trunk, guiding you to turn on all your senses to get a better understanding of the gardens.
- Jardin Emotions (The Emotions Garden)
Our favorite area in the entire garden complex, the Emotions Garden is what you will see wherever you search for the Etretat’s pictures. The iconic “Drops of Rain” sculpture (whimsical and unsettlingly surreal at the same time), comprised of giant heads in different emotion states that are supposed to mimic the ocean’s everchanging moods (we, however, thought they grimaced as they bumped into the scratchy bushes after falling from the sky), is the perfect place to stop and ponder. The scalloped topiary here is also a testament to Marie Antoinette’s oyster farm that was located right beneath the cliffs of Etretat. In general, even though the remodel of the park focused more on minimalism and surrealism, you can see Baroque-leaning influences peek through: In the case of the Emotions Garden, it’s the plush green topiary that looks like it should have a pearl in the middle of each bush.
- Jardin Impressions (The Impressionist Garden)
Bearing the name of an artistic movement that was so prominent at the time of the garden’s becoming, Jardin Impressions looks exactly like a Monet painting — just squint a little as you look at the colorful flowerbeds and you’ll get the front-row seat to an Impressionist masterpiece! Constantly changing in color, the scenery is different every time you visit; and although the garden is mostly green, some parts, like this one, do pay homage to the original owner’s whims (the actress was very serious about her orchids, so a touch of color is in order). Though the heavyweights of the movement are long gone, it wouldn’t be too much a shock to turn a corner and find Monet painting yet another masterpiece, even now: There actually is a statue of Claude Monet in the garden! It’s made out of wicker and put in the place where the painter loved to draw sunsets.
- Jardin d'Aval (The Downstream Garden)
Named after the iconic cliff of La Falaise d’Aval (which you can see from this area of the garden, with each manicured plant guiding your gaze towards the beautiful view), the “Downstream” Garden is the one that most resembles a scene from Alice in Wonderland. Sure, you can argue that the whole thing looks as though a rabbit is about to jump up from behind a bush and proclaim that you’re late to a tea party, — and you’ll be right! However, this space is the most bizarre looking of the bunch! We believe it’s mainly due to the sheer abundance of orchids in this particular spot — their crazy shapes and even crazier color combos will evoke a “What-the-heck-am-I-even-looking-at” feeling each time you look over at them. Jardin d’Aval is a place to chill and catch your breath: There are a lot of areas you can do just that, while still being in the presence of the grandiose horticultural accomplishment.
- Jardin Zen (The Zen Garden)
Continuing on with a more contemplative (hence, zen-like) vibe, Jardin Zen is a serene space where you feel a deep connection with nature. A tall bamboo grove muffles the sounds coming from the ocean and protects from strong breezes, — visitors intuitively lower their voices when entering the area. The pièce de résistance of this part of the garden is a terracotta installation of wind chime-esque structures: When they sway in the wind, the sound waves created are those of the word “Art” when spoken in different languages. Pretty neat, huh? We absolutely love when the exhibits portrayed have these layers to them: Not only are they beautiful and soothing sounds to hear, but they also bear hidden meaning (with prior understanding, it’s very pleasing to be in-the-know!). One last notable feature of Jardin Zen is the flowers — the ones you can see in this part of the garden only bloom white, thus highlighting the peacefulness that almost palpably exudes out of the ground.
- Jardin La Manche (The English Channel Garden)
Because the Gardens of Etretat look out on the undulating waves of the English Channel, its creators could not possibly leave out this reference from the garden’s structure. Sitting right in the center of the gardens, Jardin La Manche is a swirling maze of wave-like brush, — its silver-toned leaves resembling the foam the waves make as they crash into the shore. There are small tributes to the water in all parts of the gardens: Some more on the nose, like tall grass that moves like waves in the wind, to more hidden references, — like little succulents that form a “tide pool” out in the open. Jardin La Manche does a great job of hiding the sprawling panorama of the English Channel, only to reveal the view in all its glory a few steps ahead.
- Jardin d'Amont (The Upstream Garden)
Speaking of views, Jardin d’Amont saves the best for last: La Falaise d'Amont, one of the three beautiful cliff stone arches on the water is right there for you to behold. But that’s not all! Being the highest point of the entire garden, the area provides sweeping views of the rest of the territory: You can see every part mentioned before sprawled out right in front of you, each one adding its own little flare to the overall neo-futuristic concept of the revamped grounds. But don’t think that Jardin d’Amont’s only pull is the promise of a great panorama: It’s intriguing terrace layout and more rocky terrain are supposed to mirror the cliff formations of the Alabaster Coast that the gardens call home, giving a stark contrast to the lush topiary that surrounds it below. Jardin d’Amont is a great finishing point of your Gardens of Etretat exploration — the area is both geometric and free in design, the ultimate combination that the gardens’ creators strived for.
While the natural side of the Gardens of Etretat is definitely the main course, the exhibitions in place are the scrumptious dessert options that make an entire meal sing! The roster of exciting exhibits is replenished with more artistic prowess than anywhere else: The Gardens of Etretat have their own art residency program, and you can find the latest works of the residents right there inside the grounds!
Both adults and kids will love exploring the installations: Forget about the stuffy museum experiences with their “do not touch” and “do not photograph” signs! The Gardens encourage you to become one with art, so touch, feel, and play with the exhibited art pieces as you see fit (with a level of common sense, of course). And when it comes to taking pictures — boy, oh boy! We would feel sorry for you cloud storage, but the views are too good to pass up: Your social media is about to get greener and more surreal after the visit!
After getting the first taste of what the Gardens might look and feel like the next time you come here, it’s time to get practical with it and give you all the necessary details you might need to plan a successful outing in the Gardens of Etretat.
Tickets price and working hours of the Etretat Gardens
We’ve got some good news for travelers with kids. Not only will your children love interactive sculptures and parts of the gardens that look somewhat like enchanted forests from fantasy stories, but they will also get great deals — there is a discount for youngsters aged 8-14 and no entrance fee for the little ones (< 7) at all. The usual rate is a little bit expensive, but we feel that the unforgettable experience is worth the price. The Etretat Gardens tickets in 2024:
- Adults — €12.50 per person
- Teenagers (15–17) — €10 per person
- Children (8–14) and disabled visitors — €7.50 per person
- Children (< 7) — free
- Groups of 20+ persons — €9 per person
You can buy tickets on the official website or Viator. In high season, it is a good idea to book your visit in advance. When the season is low (not summer months, to be more exact), however, you can even buy tickets at the door!
The Etretat Gardens opening hours:
Now, these ones are tricky! Les Jardins d'Étretat welcome visitors all year round except for the winter season — the gardens are closed from late December to mid-February.
Other periods differ in their closing times:
- From February 17th to March 31st, the Gardens are open Wednesday to Sunday, from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.;
- From April 1st to July 12th, the Gardens are open every day, from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.;
- From July 13th to August 25th, the Gardens are open every day, from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.;
- From August 26th to November 3d, the Gardens are open every day, from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.;
- From November 4th to mid/late December, the Gardens are open Wednesday to Sunday, from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.
As usual, the last admission is 30 minutes before closing time, so plan your tour to start a little earlier!
How to get to Les Jardins d'Étretat from Paris
Located within mere 200 km from Paris, Etretat is a popular destination for a day trip from the capital. To get to the Gardens, you will first need to get to the town itself. Basically, there are three ways to make Paris to Etretat day trip happen — you can:
- Rent a car. We prefer Rentalcars.com, as the service has all the deals from major companies in one place (prices start from €25/day). This is the most convenient choice — it allows you to be flexible and explore other charming villages and towns of Normandy. The only downside is that it might be hard to find a parking spot in high season (make sure to to keep reading for some much needed parking tips in Etretat). It is usually a 3-hour drive from Paris to Etretat (a little shorter if there isn’t much traffic). The fastest but also the most expensive route is the A-13 highway — make sure to have euros on hand to pay for the toll roads. If you have the time, we recommend taking D6014 so that you can check out the beautiful city of Rouen on the way.
- Take a bus. This is the most budget-friendly option. Flixbus has good rates (only €10-20) and frequent discounts. Early departures from Paris guarantee that you have plenty of time left for sightseeing in Etretat. The bus ride takes 3,5 hours, just a little longer than going by car. The only problem is that the service is run only in peak season, but then again you probably don’t want to visit Etretat in late autumn or early spring because of the weather.
- Catch a train. This one requires some management skills but offers a nice detour. The thing is there is no direct connection with Etretat. You will have to get on one of the 2-hour trains from Paris-St. Lazare to Le Havre. Tickets usually cost €10-30 and can be bought on the SNCF website. If you are just looking for a quick transfer, you might exit at Breaute-Beuzeville and take a bus №17 to Etretat from there (departs at 10:55 a.m.). However, we recommend making it to the final destination for two reasons: The buses (line №24) from Le Havre to Etretat (a 30-minute ride for €2) are much more frequent, and you can take a peek at the unique architecture of the city which is recognized by UNESCO.
Once in Etretat, there are also a few ways to reach the Gardens:
- Climb the stairs from Etretat Beach (hard mode);
- Take the Jules Gerbeau Street all the way up to the Gardens from the city center: The slope is still quite steep, but it’s easier to conquer than the stairs;
- If you’re on a bike or a scooter, then take Damilaville Avenue — it’s the longest route of the bunch, and also the most even!
- If you’re not keen on walking, then catch a little train that rides from the city hall to the Gardens’ entrance: The tickets are usually combined with a price of admission, rounding up to about €17 per adult and €13 per child aged 8-14.
Parking in Etretat
Parking is a sore subject in Etretat — the town is just too small for all the tourists that swarm the place in summer. Plus, the Amont Cliff that the Gardens call home is a natural protected site, so you can’t actually park in its immediate vicinity.
It is better to arrive early in the morning for an empty space close to the gardens. And even then, it is still a 15-minute walk. Also, keep in mind that the closer you are to the promenade, the bigger your bill is. You can use this website to pay for parking in Etretat.
Let’s go through all of the parking options sorted by distance to Les Jardins d'Étretat. You can make it in:
- 10-15 minutes from Place de la Mairie, Place du Marche, Place Maurice Guillard, Place de Gaulle, or Place de la Gare;
- 20 minutes from Parking Grand Val or Parking at 20 Route du Havre;
- 30 minutes from Route de Criquetot (Parking de la Guezanne).
Fun facts about the Gardens of Etretat
If you’re anything like us, you quickly get tired of the detailed and precise shop talk. So, let’s spice it up with some facts about the Gardens of Etretat that have been stuck in our brains ever since our first visit:
- Les Jardins d'Étretat are listed among the “Great Gardens of the World”. The main criterion for getting an entry on that list compiled by international landscape architects is a balance between nature, beauty, and design. The Etretat Gardens have a few other titles to their name as well. Their natural and cultural heritage was acknowledged with a star in Michelin Green Guide while the French Ministry of Culture labeled the site as a “Remarkable Garden”. The point of all this being that you don’t want to miss out on a chance to visit internationally acclaimed gardens while in Etretat. It’s like they have a few Oscars under their sleeves, but the categories are more picnic-oriented and leafy green!
- Speaking of awards, Les Jardins d'Étretat won one for the best restoration. As we’ve mentioned before, the Gardens of Etretat found a second life in 2017. A restoration project led by a famous landscape architect Alexander Grivko took 2 years. The idea was to combine the history of the park, modern art, and the natural landmarks of Normandy. The effort and creativity didn’t go unnoticed — the gardens won a European Garden Award in the category “Best restoration or development of a historic park or garden”.
- The creation of the gardens was influenced by Claude Monet. Just like Etretat was the source of inspiration for the artist (he painted the iconic local view on more than 80 (!) canvasses), his work, in turn, inspired the design of Les Jardins d'Étretat. He was a good friend of the original owner — the actress who loved to surround herself with creative people!
- As a matter of fact, the beauty of Etretat was also captured in the works of Camille Corot, Eugene Delacroix, Charles Daubigny, Edouard Manet, and Vasily Polenov. They all knew a good view when they saw one!
- The most popular art installation of the gardens is “Drops of Rain”. The Garden of Emotions gets more attention from tourists because of the impressive sculptures by Spanish artist Samuel Salcedo. They say that each head weighs no less than 2 tons! You can buy mini versions of the heads (just choose the emotion that most speaks to you) in the Gardens’ Gift Shop that is located on the ground floor of the original villa.
- You can find a few of the originally planted 100-year-old trees in the park. In fact, the Gardens incorporate a lot of elements of the 1905 design, despite their predominantly modern appearance today.
- The Gardens are home to more than 150,000 plants, which is quite a lot considering the territory covering only 1.5 hectares. It’s like Hermione’s purse from Harry Potter — small, but filled to the brim with exciting objects!
- The site below the Gardens was once used to supply the Royal Court with oysters. As we’ve alluded above, back in the 18th century, French Queen Marie Antoinette chose Etretat as a perfect place for an oyster farm. The actual remains of the old facility can be found at the foot of the Amont Cliff. Millions (!) of mollusks were farmed here every year.
Other things to do in Etretat
Though undoubtedly magnificent, the Etretat Gardens shouldn’t be the only place on your itinerary. And how could it be, when the English Channel that stretches out for as long as the eye can see and the iconic rock formations framing the town are there for you to witness and enjoy? There are plenty of other exciting things to do in Etretat. Let us list the best activities to experience in town:
- Enjoy the views from the Etretat cliffs
The one landmark that is more popular than the Gardens is the Etretat Cliffs. The impressive rock formations with arches inspired Monet and other famous painters. The closest location to get the view of the coastline and sea after the gardens is La Falaise d’Amont. If you don’t mind the walk, there are two more very much recommended cliffs on the other side of town, La Falaise d’Aval and La Manneporte. Take some food with you and have a picnic with breathtaking views. Trust us, even if you’re more keen on city panoramas (we’re with you, just check out our list of the best viewpoints in Paris), your mind will be blown away (sometimes literally, by a strong breeze coming from the Channel) by the beautiful endless vistas that open up from the cliffs in Etretat.
- Chill on the Etretat beach
Normandy is well-known for its beautiful beaches. And you can’t have a fully functional beach town without a great beach (duh)! Etretat has several locations for a proper sea vacation. If you exit the gardens and go down the hill, there is a nice beach by the town promenade. Its only downside is that the beach gets busy during high season — so, head to the lesser known Plage d’Antifer or Plage du Fourquetfor for some peace and quiet. Walking along the coast under the cliffs is amazing, but don’t forget to check tide times online prior to coming.
- Marvel at the churches of Etretat
The main church of Etretat — Église Notre Dame de l'Assomption — has an interesting mixture of Romanesque and Gothic architecture. You can take a peek at the lancet windows as well as visit the nearby cemetery. A more popular attraction though is a small chapel Notre Dame de la Garde, which is set on top of the Amont Cliff close to the Etretat Gardens. Its unusual neo-Gothic style catches your attention right away.
- Learn some history about Etretat
Musée du Patrimoine d'Etretat stands behind the chapel and the gardens. They have pictures, sculptures, and artifacts connected with the history of Etretat. The entrance fee is only €3. Don’t forget to check out a tall white needle-like monument near the museum, as it’s a tribute to two French aviators who tried to make the first non-stop transatlantic flight from Paris to New York.
Tips and tricks you need to know before visiting the Etretat Gardens
Your visit to the Etretat Gardens will be a grand one if you remember that:
- There is a lot of walking uphill to reach the Gardens, so wear comfortable shoes (we would recommend you leave your heels at home);
- The hiking also means bringing sun protection and extra water in summer months and an umbrella and an extra layer in shoulder seasons;
- The site is generally inaccessible to strollers and wheelchairs, but you can contact the visitor’s center to work out a solution if you have a peculiar situation;
- Only small dogs are allowed inside the Gardens, on the condition that they remain in the arms of their owners or in a special carrier during the entire visit;
- You cannot fly a drone over the Gardens, so forget about the cool overhead shots of the beautiful topiary;
- Speaking of shots, you can take as many pictures as you want for your personal use, but you’ll have to pay commission if you use the shots for business purposes. Also, special events, like weddings and such, will have to pay for the opportunity to take professional photos inside;
- The Etretat Gardens combined with perfect beaches and natural landmarks make for an amazing vacation spot. To enjoy and explore all of it we suggest that you spend at least 2-3 days in town.
Where to stay near the Etretat Gardens
Even though a quaint little town of Etretat is a magical place in every sense of the word, we recommend staying out of town for several reasons. It is cheaper, more peaceful, and more authentic. Airbnb has a lot of great options, like little cozy bed and breakfasts and family rooms not too far from Etretat. We absolutely loved this place, 15 minutes away from Etretat on foot (€120 a night). If you travel by car, you can look for accommodations even further from Etretat. Staying in a farm cottage in a lovely Normandy village is an entirely different experience that you are guaranteed to enjoy.
But it’s not like spending a night in town is a bad idea — it makes sense for those who have limited time. We booked a triple room at Hotel des Falaises (from €110 a night). There are complaints about the service here, but our experience was fine. Also, you can get epic views if you stay close to the promenade. An obvious tip for a resort town like Etretat is to book in advance.
We would like to offer you some reasonable accommodations we found:
- Hotel La Résidence Manoir De La Salamandre (from €90 a night) — speaking of authentic haunts, this hotel takes the cake as one of the chicest, most exciting, and, above all, affordable stays in Etretat. Exposed wooden beams under high ceilings, four-post beds, ornate decor, — you won’t find the same design ethos anywhere in the vicinity, that’s a guarantee!
- Détective Hôtel (from €125 a night) — a great hotel for travelers that want a little pizzazz and mystique to go with their lodging options! Each room here is uniquely decorated after one of the world’s famous detectives, agents, and such (there’s a room with a Charlie’s Angels theme, and, of course, two stars of the show — Sherlock Holmes and Hercule Poirot, among other suites). You’ve heard of a dinner and a show, so how about a hotel room and a murder mystery?
- Hotel Le Rayon Vert (from €140 a night) — wonderful options of suites with a sea view. The rooms are quite big, and there is a private hot tub — not sure if you need it when you have the Channel right across the hotel, but it’s still a nice bonus.
- Dormy House (from €140 a night) — perched right on a cliff, this is an amazing hotel with even greater location: You can easily access both the Gardens and the Etretat Beach. The rooms and service here are all the rave among the guests; but the cherry on top is the hotel’s restaurant — spend an evening here unwinding after a great day of sightseeing with some epic gourmet dishes and a bottle of their finest wine.
- La villa 10 HÔTEL SPA (from €200 per night) — comfortable rooms at a beautiful villa. The hotel offers parking for an extra fee, but it may not be available on busy days. The spa, however, is set with a free access sauna, — a dream come true after some time spent outside in strong winds. Check the photos to make sure you are okay with the room size.
Gardens of Etretat: In conclusion
Even though we’ve visited the Gardens of Etretat a few times already, they still remain enigmatic and mysterious in our minds: It’s hard to put into words exactly the way this garden/art gallery/museum/playground/”what-in-a-god’s-name-is-this-plant”/etc. will make you feel unless you’re the one experiencing the sights in the moment. However, what we do know for certain is that strolling through the Gardens, gazing at the tall white cliffs, and getting lost in the narrow streets of the town of Etretat itself is an experience you absolutely must have at least once in your lifetime.
If you have any further questions about the Gardens of Etretat, or if you want to share your favorite part of the whole experience with us, please, leave your inquiries and insights in the comment section down below. So, what are you waiting for? Normandy is waiting for you!